Almost everyone we dealt with spoke great English. You could easily travel in Paris without speaking any French.

Despite that fact, I tried to speak to French to everyone. I thought for sure they'd reply in English, and some did, but most patiently conversed in French, even though it would probably have been easier for us both in English. One exceptional hotel clerk patiently explained some extra charges three times, until he was sure I understood.

When speaking in French, I have certain habits I've picked up in Mali. One is greeting people I pass on the street, which I managed, thankfully, to avoid in Paris. Also, I never, I repeat NEVER, start talking to someone without properly greeting them, i.e., asking them how they are (and, ideally, how their whole family is). So I started every conversation in Paris that way: "Hello. How are you?" It usually resulted in a blank stare and a confused "Pardon?" When I repeated the question they answered with a bemused smile. I guess that's just not how it's done in France.

But even though I wanted to stop, I found I couldn't. It's like calling your friend's mom "Mrs. Walker" your whole life, then one day when you're twenty-two she suddenly asks you to call her "Maureen." Not possible.