I went to the bank to cash a check. I don't have a Malian bank account so I am at the mercy of my creditors -- whatever bank they draw on is the one I have to visit to get my money.

I've been to BIM and Bank of Africa. Inside, both banks were pretty much what I expected: Dingy, brown, and hot. Crowded and chaotic. Standing in the wrong, unmoving line for 15 minutes, swatting at flies, then giving up and going to the information desk, where there was not even the semblance of a line and people just shoved their way to the counter. My white face grabbed attention and, a bit ashamed of myself for doing so but eager to get out of the bank, I took advantage. I was pointed to the correct "line" -- another mass of impatient, sweaty customers pressing up against each other. The bank tellers were, if not surly, completely indifferent to us.

Then I went to BNDA, located far from the center of town, on one side of a wide boulevard. I stepped inside and stopped dead: It was like I had been transported to an American bank. The floor was carpeted, the air cool and quiet. People waited calmly in rows of chairs. No one rushed the tellers.

I asked the woman at the front desk where to go to cash my check. Smiling and friendly (!) she told me to take a number (!!). By the doors there were not one but two rolls of tickets, one for withdrawals and one for deposits. I took a number and sat quietly in the black chairs until -- this is the truly amazing part -- my number appeared on an LED screen over one of the teller windows.

Is not that not amazing? Please keep in mind, I live in a city with one ATM, no elevators, and electricity and running water for only the wealthiest of residents. Then you might begin to understand how amazing those rolls of numbered tickets and LED screens were.

The best part, though: While I was waiting, I was asked to take a customer service survey ... But I didn't have time, because my number was called so quickly.