Edinburgh, Scotland

july 2002

Between jobs I took a last-minute trip to London, England, and Edinburgh, Scotland. I spent three nights in Edinburgh. The quotes are from notes I took while traveling.

I stayed at the Greenhouse, a vegetarian B&Bsouth of the city center, on Hartington Gardens. Despite my great hopes to the contrary, "my host does not look like Ewan McGregor. I believe I was misled by his accent." To get to town each day, I walked through the Grassmarket. That's where I got my first glimpse of the castle, which looms over everything from a column of volcanic rock.

On the first day—rainy and cold—I visited the castle. "It's no wonder tea and whisky go down so well here." The Scottish War Memorial and a tiny, well-kept cemetery for the pets of officers were most moving.

On the second day—sunny and gorgeous—I climbed Arthur's Seat (elev. 823 feet). From there, I could see the castle, Calton Hill (with the old Gaol and "Edinburgh's disgrace", the Scottish monument modeled after the Parthenon -- with only 12 of 48 columns completed before funding ran out), the site of the new Scottish Parliament building. I could see all the way out to the Firth of Forth.

The Prince Street Gardens were once "Nor Loch," where sewage and accused witches were deposited. Now they have nice views of the castle, and grass greener than you can imagine, and the world's largest monument to a man of letters, Sir Walter Scott.

From the Outlook Tower: the Royal Assembly Hall, used for Scottish Parliament meetings until the new building is complete; the Esplanade (entrance to the castle), all done up for the Military Tattoo, and, that particular night, a Paul Simon concert; and the Royal Mile with Arthur's Seat in the background. Also, the Royal Mile looking up from the other end, in Canongate.

Calton Hill Cemetery.

On Princes Street, the Balmoral hotel; the old Calton Gaol, and Waverley rail station; the Cameo theater, where I spent my evenings with a tub of Edinburgh ice cream ("Made with milk, butter, and double cream!") and a bottle of Scottish sparkling water; and the walk home from the movies.